The truth about anti-ageing products
02:56
Anti-aging products are primarily aimed at adults above the
age of 25 years old, I truly believe prevention is the best cure. Look after
your skin whilst you’re young and you’ll be very grateful of your younger self
in 25 years time.
In 2013, anti-ageing products
accounted for 41.6 percent of the facial skincare market in the UK.
‘The global anti-aging market is said to be worth $191.7
billion by 2019.’’
I’m sure we have all heard some
of the anti aging skin products claims, for those who have drawn blank here are
a few:
●
unveil
younger-looking skin
●
helps
fight the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and visibly smooths the skin.
One of the biggest misconceptions is that these products
will cure you of wrinkles or any other signs of aging but if they did have the
ability to make such drastic changes to the skin then they would be classed as
drugs rather than cosmetics.
Here are some definitions of some words you will need to
know in order to understand:
Collagen: the
protein in the skin that provides structure and support of the skin. Collagen
is found in the dermis and synthesised in fibroblasts.
Glycosaminoglycans
(GAG): these are polysaccharides that can bind to water up to 1,000 times
its weight and make the skin turgor. Usually sandwiched between collagen and
elastin in the dermis. Examples include Hyaluronic acid.
Elastin: This is
a protein that provides the skin with elasticity and helps the skin to stretch
and bounce back into position. This is also found in the dermis and formed in
fibroblasts
‘Hope in a jar?’
A lot of these products will contain key ingredients that
will help reduce the appearance. Here are some key ingredients to look out for:
●
Retinoids. The
retinoid family includes Vitamin A ( retinol), retinaldehyde, retinoic acid and
retinyl esters. They aren’t naturally found in the body and therefore have to
be supplied to the body, once in the body they can be converted into retinoic
acid in order to be useful. In the body they are expected to be helpful in
renewing epidermal ( the upper layer of the skin) cells; acting as a shield
from UV radiation; and stimulate synthesis of collagen. Retinols smooth skin by
modulating genes involved in the epidermal turnover.
●
AHAs. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are used as mild
exfoliants that have the ability to treat photo damaged skin. As well as
increase the thickness of the skin by inducing the synthesis of collagen and
glycosaminoglycans. Which will plump up and hydrate the skin. Glycolic acid is the smallest of the AHAs, it
works by removing calcium ions in the top layer of the skin which disrupts the
binding of skin cells together which has
an exfoliating effect on the top layer of the skin and promotes cell growth.
However, studies have shown glycolic acid to cause irritation and
photosensitivity so make sure to apply sunscreen!
●
Coenzyme Q10. Coenzyme
Q10 is a naturally occurring antioxidant in the body but as we age its
concentration depletes. At low Q10 levels the body is unable to produce
collagen and elastin which leads to the appearance of wrinkles and sagging
skin. It helps fight off free radicals that can cause oxidative stress and lead
to DNA damage. Q10 is small enough to penetrate into the skin.
Recommended
affordable products:
1. Avon’s
Anew Ultimate Multi-Performance Day cream broad spectrum SPF 25.
·
Price:
£25
·
This
product contains glycolic acid, AHA, that has been clinically proven to
increase the thickness of the epidermis, decrease hyperpigmentation and improve
wrinkling. AHAs have also been proven to increase photosensitivity so the presence
of SPF 25 will help protect your skin.
·
The
product also contains glycerine and dimethicone, the combination of the two are
found in a majority of moisturising products. These will help create the
impression of smooth and hydrated skin.
·
Key
Ingredients: water, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10),
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter .
·
Price:
£9.99
·
This
product contains Coenzyme Q10 which is also known as ubiquinone. Clinical
studies have shown that wrinkles were reduced after 5 months when Coenzyme Q10
was applied and the production of enzymes that breakdown collagen was reduced.
·
The
product also contains Butrysopermum Parkii Butter helps retain the moisture and
reduce water loss from the skin. This another ingredient common in moisturiser.
This will help improve the appearance f dry skin
3.
RoC Retinol Correxion deep wrinkle filler.
·
Key
Ingredients: water, retinol, hydrolysed hyaluronic acid, glycerine and
dimethicone.
·
Price:
£22
·
This
product contains retinol this will improve the appearance of sun damage and
aged skin. They are capable of repairing DNA damage and increases the thickness
and elasticity of the skin.
·
The
product also contains hydrolysed hyaluronic acid which is a low molecular
weight and smaller sized hyaluronic acid that is able to penetrate the skin
rather than form a film on top of the skin.
Beware of products containing collagen and
hyaluronic acid both of these are film-formers that lie on the top layer of the
skin but are too large to actually penetrate into the skin. Products containing
collagen will have no effect on the collagen production within the skin nor
will products containing increase the levels of hyaluronic acid in the body.
They will, however, hold water up to 1,000 times their weight and protect the
skin from moisture loss, making them excellent moisturisers.
‘If these products cured/treated skin aging then they would classified as pharmaceuticals not cosmetics’
As these products are only classed as cosmetics it suggests
that they do not treat the imperfections because if they did then they would be
classed as cosmetics by EU cosmetic regulations. They merely conceal and with
the right ingredients such as retinol, coenzyme Q10 or an AHA they can have the
secondary purpose of preventing the formation of further imperfections.
‘Prevention is the best cure’
A lot of anti-aging products merely moisturise the skin and
therefore create the impression of smooth and hydrated skin. Many anti-aging products
will claim to ‘’unveil younger looking skin’ but in the absence of ingredients
such as AHAs and retinols, that have been proven to reverse aging, these claims
are false. Taking precautionary steps can help prolong the signs of aging. Here
are a few tips:
- 1. SUN SCREEN. It’s important to wear sunscreen all year round to protect against UV radiation. UV radiation is accountable for 80% of facial aging! UV radiation activates enzymes that degrade collagen and results in the production of free radicals which cause oxidative stress and can lead to skin cancer.
- 2. Eat an antioxidant rich diet. Foods high in antioxidants and vitamins such as fruits and vegetables.
- 3. Stop smoking. Smoking reduces the collagen and elastin production in the skin causing it to age quickly.
- 4. Moisturize. Especially in cold weather the skin require protection ageing dehydration.
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